CHI TIẾT NGHIÊN CỨU …
Tiêu đề
Intimate Paradoxes of Victorian Lingerie: The Cases of George Sand and Amelia Bloomer
Tác giả
Munteanu D.G.
Năm xuất bản
2020
Source title
Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues
Số trích dẫn
0
DOI
10.1163/9781848881488_021
Liên kết
Tóm tắt
Drawing on expertise from cultural anthropology and the liberal arts, the aim of this chapter is to examine some of the interwoven psychological, anthropological, sexual, and socially semiotic representations of 19th century feminine undergarments, and in this process show how these phenomenological and cultural constructs shaped - or reflected - Victorian civilisation in terms of gender identities, erotic taboos and widely-dispersed social attitudes. Central to this chapter will be two critical case-studies, one on American dress reformer Amelia Jenks Bloomer, demonised by her contemporaries for donning, underneath a skirt, a form of loose Turkish trousers, and the other on the French Romantic poet George Sand, who plainly dressed in masculine attire. This chapter will argue that although both Sand and Bloomer dramatically transgressed the Victorian norms of femininity, arousing (especially Bloomer) ridicule and moral trepidation, neither of them was in any way riotously unfeminine or radically revolutionary. © Inter-Disciplinary Press 2012.
Từ khóa
Amelia Bloomer; Femininity; George Sand; Lingerie; Shame; Victorianism
Tài liệu tham khảo
Craik J., The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion, (1998); Cunnington W., Cunnington P., The History of Underclothes. New York, (1992); Elias N., The Civilising Process: The History of Manners, (1978); Fields J.A.I.A., Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality, Berkley: University of California Press, (2007); Sand G., Ultimate Reference Digital Suite, 2003, (2003); Hedley A., Frédéric Chopin, Article Contributed for the Encyclopaedia Britannica 2003 Ultimate Reference Digital Suite, (2003); Marly J., Dress, Article Contributed for the Encyclopaedia Britannica 2003 Ultimate Reference Digital Suite, (2003); Newton S.M.H., Dress Reformers of the 19Th Century, (1974); Roberts H., The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman, Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society, 2, pp. 554-569, (1977); Steele V., The Corset: A Cultural History, (2007)
Nơi xuất bản
Brill
Hình thức xuất bản
Book chapter
Open Access
Nguồn
Scopus